This is a description of Le Lyrial, a cruise ship operated by the Compagnie du Ponant, that made its inaugural cruise in May 2015.
My wife Monique passed away at 17:00 on the 23 December 2023. I will never recover completely from the loss of my companion in life for nearly 49 years, but I still wanted to continue to travel. I decided to take a cruise to the Antarctic, in part because I knew that my wife hated the cold, and also she was not particularly attracted to long-haul flying nor the idea of a cruise.
Finally I booked the “Expedition to the Southern Lands“, with Ponant on Le Lyrial over November-December 2024.
It’s worth stressing that I had never been on a cruise ship, had possibly only slept one night on a ferry (at the age of around 7), had never visited the Antarctic, Argentina or South America, and was travelling alone.
Wikipedia tells us that Le Lyrial has 122 cabins and suites, all with sea views, and almost all with a private balcony. It’s worthwhile mentioning that the formula was “all inclusive“, and included full meals with drinks (also at the bars, etc.), all the excursions (excluding the kayak trips which were optional), wi-fi, entertainment, etc., and unusually the room-service was also part of the inclusive package.
Wikipedia also mentions that the name refers to Lyra, a small constellation in the northern hemisphere. Most people will never have heard of this constellation, however, it’s possible than many more people with have heard of Vega, Lyra’s brightest star, which is one of the brightest stars in the night sky.
In this post I will look at the ship, the cabins, the services onboard, etc. I did not partake of all the onboard services, so I will only cover those I actually used.
In a separate post I will try to understand better what it really means to be an expedition ship navigating in polar waters.
And I have also prepared two additional posts covering the day-by-day life onboard, i.e. the activities, conferences, excursions, etc.
What type of cruise ship is Le Lyrial?
I suppose the first question is about the difference between boat and ship? We will learn that even the simplest question, has no exact answer.
Historically, ships were defined as vessels with at least three masts, each carrying square sails. A boat is a watercraft of a large range of types and sizes, but generally smaller than a ship, which is distinguished by its larger size or capacity, its shape, etc. Usually ships refer to vessels built for ocean or deep-water navigation, while boats are typically for inland waterways or coastal waters. So ships are typically larger than boats, but there is no universally accepted distinction between the two.
Ships generally can remain at sea for longer periods of time than boats, and often they have a full-time crew assigned. Just to confuse things even more, some large vessels are traditionally called boats, notably submarines, riverboats, ferryboats, etc., yet we always talk about Viking longships.
Next, does a cruise ship have a precise definition? Again, No.
In ancient times galleys and dhows were used for trade, warfare and transporting people, often elite passengers, e.g. we know that Roman merchant ships carried wealthy passengers across the Mediterranean. Later the Italian city-states like Venice used galleys to connect trading hubs and accommodate travellers heading to the Holy Land. And of course the Crusades spurred significant passenger traffic, as large fleets carried knights, pilgrims, and supplies to the Eastern Mediterranean.
As early as the 12th century Cogs were used by the Hanseatic League to carry cargo and passengers across the Baltic and North Seas. In the 15th century Caravels were used by early European explorers (e.g. Christopher Columbus). Later Carracks were designed for still longer voyages and could carry passengers, cargo, and supplies (e.g. Vasco da Gama reached India). By the 16th century the Galleons transported passengers along with valuable cargo such as spices and silver. These were the ships of the Age of Discovery.
Starting in the 17th century Packet Boats carried mail, cargo, and passengers along the European coasts, and later across the Atlantic. They were relatively small and not luxurious, but these ships offered regular schedules. Then came the East Indiaman, designed for trade between Europe and Asia, and they often carried passengers along trade routes.
It was in the 19th century that steamships appeared and travel times were dramatically reduced. Along with clippers, they carried immigrants, traders, and tourists across the Atlantic. By the late 19th century, companies like Cunard and White Star began building large, luxurious ocean liners. These ships offered distinct classes, with lavish accommodations for wealthy travellers and more modest quarters for emigrants.
With the rise of aviation in the mid-20th century, ocean liners transitioned from transportation to leisure. Following World War II, traditional liners adapted to shorter routes or became dedicated cruise ships. And it was in the 1960s that cruise ships were custom built to offer a resort-style experience (e.g. with onboard entertainment, themed cruises, and exotic itineraries, etc.). By the late 20th and early 21st centuries, cruise ships became floating cities, catering to mass tourism and luxury markets alike.
There is not a universally binding formal definition of a cruise ship, e.g. the International Maritime Organization (IMO) just calls them “passenger ships”, and others just define a cruise ship as any ship able to carry more than 12 passengers. The US Coast Guard defines cruise ships as any passenger vessel operating in international waters with a focus on recreational activities. Classification Societies or Registers define cruise ships in terms of their gross tonnage, passenger capacity, and intended use (i.e., non-transportation, leisure voyages). But they do separately identify ferries, expedition ships and yachts.
However, the cruise industry generally recognises several size categories. Firstly small ships with a gross tonnage up to 25,000 GT, and passenger capacity up to 500 passengers. Mid-sized ships have a gross tonnage of 25,000 to 60,000 GT, and a passenger capacity of 500–1,500 passengers. Large cruise ships have a gross tonnage of 60,000 to 110,000 GT, with a passenger capacity of 1,500–3,000 passengers. Mega-ships have a gross tonnage of 110,000 GT or more, and a passenger capacity of 3,000–6,000+ passengers. There are also a few ultra-large cruise ships with a gross tonnage of 200,000 GT or more, and a passenger capacity of 6,000–9,000+ passengers.
Le Lyrial is a small expedition ship
Le Lyrial has 122 cabins and a gross tonnage of 10,944 UMS. This UMS is a tonnage convention used for regulatory, safety, and operational purposes, rather than directly representing weight or displacement, but it clearly places Le Lyrial in the small cruise ship category.
However, more importantly Le Lyrial is an expedition ship, which firstly means that it is small ship able to navigate in restricted areas like polar regions, near small islands, or in shallow waterways. For example, the draft of Le Lyrial is only 4.7 meters, as compare to 6 to 7.5 meters for a normal cruise ship of a similar tonnage.
Secondly, it means that it would normally have an ice-class hull (i.e. reinforced), and be able to operate in icy waters, such as the Arctic Ocean and the Antarctic ice sheet. This also usual implies that it is equipped with dynamic positioning systems and/or advanced thrusters for safe navigation in uncharted waters.
Thirdly, it means that they carry numerous zodiacs (small landing craft) and kayaks, and in some cases even submersibles and helicopters for off-ship exploration.
Fourthly, if the ship operates in Arctic or Antarctic regions they must be Polar Code Compliant, which sets safety and environmental protection standards. In addition, due to their remote itineraries, these ships must be equipped with advanced safety systems, emergency supplies, and some specially trained crew members.
The Polar Code also specifies hull construction standards for ships operating in Arctic and Antarctic waters, including minimum structural requirements to withstand ice loads. This means a hull thickness of 8-12 mm for standard cargo ships, 20-50 mm for ice-class vessels (in the ice-belt at the water level), and more than 70 mm for icebreakers, particularly at the bow.
But this is not all. Normally at least parts of the hull should be made from high-strength, low-alloy steel, and the shape of the hull will be slightly more sloping or curved with a bow that helps push ice aside as the ship moves forward. Usually the propeller and rudder have an ice skirts or guards to protect them from ice damage. Internal structures, such as frames and bulkheads, are also usually strengthened to distribute ice pressure across the hull.
Like all ships, Le Lyrial has a unique International Maritime Organization (IMO) number. This is mandatory for all ships over 100 gross tonnage working in international waters, and is IMO: 9704130. It is used to record inspections, certifications, and performance history.
Le Lyrial also has the unique code MMSI: 578000800 which is its Maritime Mobile Service Identity. It is like a “phone number” for the ship’s radio and communication equipment, including AIS (Automatic Identification System) transceivers, digital selective calling (DSC), and satellite communication systems. This unique nine-digit number is used to identify ships, coast radio stations, and other maritime entities in the Global Maritime Distress and Safety System (GMDSS). The 578 is a control code or MID (Maritime Identification Digits), for the French overseas territory Wallis and Futuna (the ship’s flag state). The code is used in automated calling and messaging between ships, coast stations, and rescue services, as well as in real-time tracking and identification of vessels, and in distress calls so that authorities can quickly identify and locate the ship.
Le Lyrial - decks, cabins, passengers, crew
Ponant defines Le Lyrial as “one of a new generation of intimately sized cruise ships”, and provides some basic information on the ship itself, namely:-
- Length – 142 meters
- Beam – 18 meters
- Draft – 4.7 meters
- Guest decks – 6
- Staterooms and suites – 122
- Guest capacity – 264
- Zodiacs – 11
Bureau Veritas, a leading certification agency, defines Le Lyrial as Comfort Class 1, which means that onboard noise from engines, machinery, etc, has been minimised, that a substantial effort has been made to reduce vibration, and every effort has been made to ensuring smooth sailing in various sea conditions.
Le Lyrial also has a “Clean” Ship Certification, meaning that the ship meets stringent environmental regulations and implements advanced measures to reduce its ecological impact. This included compliance with strict limits on air emissions, including SOx (sulphur oxides) and NOx (nitrogen oxides), usually achieved through using cleaner fuels or exhaust scrubbers. This is linked with efforts to reduce fuel consumption. In addition a special attention is paid to treating and managing wastewater, sewage, and minimising garbage. Finally it also means using equipment and practices to avoid harming marine life, such as advanced ballast water treatment systems.
The certification for Le Lyrial is for a total of up to 132 passenger cabins (1 penthouse suite, 123 balcony suites, 8 window suites), 74 crew cabins, and a maximum of 400 persons aboard.
Above is one example of the deck plans for Le Lyrial, but its important to note that more or less cabins can be created by joining or separating cabins to make more or less suites (particularly on Decks 5 and 6).
Below we have some of the possible cabin layouts. My cabin was 412, so a relatively standard “stateroom” on Deck 4. Travelling alone it was more than ample for me.
Ponant prefers to use the term stateroom, and not cabin. So staterooms already start with the 18 m² Deluxe Staterooms on Deck 3, with a private 4 m² balcony and a window and panoramic glazed swing door.
There are in fact a few 21 m² Superior Staterooms, designed to accommodate 3 passengers, but they only have a window or round porthole.
My cabin
Boarding for the first time is described in ….
First impressions were very positive. Firstly, it looked like a decent hotel room, and with the large sliding windows and a balcony there was plenty of light, and I had a view. For one person it was perfect, for two it might have been a bit “tight”.
I appreciated the cover placed on the bed ready to take the passengers suitcase. Once completely unpacked, the suitcase went in the wardrobe, and the bed throws and decorative cushions were stuffed in out-of-the-way corners. I’m not a fan of these “extras” that serve no purpose, except to collect dust (and worse).
On the bed cover we can also see a folder. This was for the “journaux de bord“ the cruse daily programmes. The programmes were distributed early evening and covered the event planned for the next day, i.e. most importantly the order of groups going out on the excursions.
Setting aside the view, the real sign that I was on a ship was in the bathroom.
Small might be an understatement, “bijou” might be a better description. For the separate WC, “very tight” might be the best description.
But in fact when a ship is moving around under sail, it’s nice to not have too much space, and to feel that there is plenty of support, etc.
Noticeable was that the cabins were made up twice daily, that hot water was literally instantaneous, and that the linen and towels were good quality and replaced as wished. Also in order to keep luggage weight down, I used the shampoo and gel that was provided onboard. The bathrobe was a welcome addition.
In terms of space, as a single traveller, the wardrobe was big enough and there were lots of good quality coat hangers. In the wardrobe there was a decent sized wall safe, and the usual grooming amenities.
When needed, I used the onboard washing services which were excellent. Prices were reasonable, but there was no dry cleaning. Everything came back the same day.
Along the side shelf there was a satellite direct-line telephone, tissues, a coffee machine with capsules (and tea, etc.), minibar, a guide to onboard services, instructions on using the flat-screen TV (I never switched it on), and a tray with glasses and bottled water. The draws under the side shelf were half-deep, but were still useful.
It was great to have the coffee machine, and the capsules were replaced immediately, but there was no milk (shame).
The most important thing was the bottled water. The atmosphere during the whole trip, onboard and on land, was very dry. I was drinking at least 2 litres of water a day. On the tray were two capsuled bottles, still and sparking, no doubt provided through the onboard watermakers. The maid was perfect and she kept me supplied with 4-5 bottles a day, replacing them twice daily.
There were plenty of sockets, and I had taken a number of chargers (e.g. iPhone, Mac laptop, camera, toothbrush, razor, etc.). The only problem was with the laptop charger. It’s heavier than the small charges used with the iPhone, and the two pronged socks were not very tight, but I was able to arrange things to work correctly. Wi-fi was included, and was reasonable.
The king-sized bed turned out to be excellent, and I liked the flexible bedside LEDs. I didn’t use the iPod/iPhone speaker near the bed.
General layout onboard
In addition to the cabins, there are numerous public spaces onboard, some designed for a specific task, others multifunctional. I will only mention those spaces I used, but the ship also had a wellness area (fitness, sauna, massage, hair salon, etc.), and a medical centre.
Let’s start with the Reception Area on Deck 3 (see above), which can loosely be equated with the Purser’s Office. It was here that all passenger services were managed (e.g. planning, housekeeping, reservations, billing, etc.).
On Deck 4 the theatre is able to accommodate all passengers. It was here that passengers were welcomed by the Captain, where the mandatory life boat drill took place, and where the expedition team were introduced.
At the end of each day there was a “Recap & Briefing” about what had happened on the day, and what the plan was for the following day. This included details on the weather and the excursions, etc.
Most of the briefings, etc. were scheduled separately in both English and French. Due to a large group from Taiwan, simultaneous translation was provided from English to Chinese. Some of the events were made jointly in English and French, and occasionally also in Chinese.
In the theatre there were numerous lectures and presentations on topics as varied as Antarctic Seals, Whaling History, Glaciology, etc.
Some evenings (21:15 to 22:00) documentaries were shown, and one evening there was a dance show, e.g. tango, etc.
Everyday there was a “morning stretching” held in the theatre at 08:00.
Possible the most important place on the ship was the Lounge on Deck 3. Certainly every passenger went through this lounge multiple times every day. It was the first thing passengers saw boarding the ship, because it hosted the welcome cocktail before everyone collected in the theatre for the Captain’s welcome, etc.
Breakfast opened at different times in the restaurants (07:00 on Deck 6 and 07:30 on Deck 2), but a simple continental breakfast was available in the Deck 3 lounge from 06:00.
The Deck 3 lounge hosted everything to do with the excursions, e.g. boot selection, bio-security checks, etc. It was here that everyone in each group had to “kit-up” ready for the excursions. Once kitted-up everyone queued on the deck outside the lounge before going down to the Marina on Deck 2, ready to board the zodiacs. Returning to the ship, everyone was checked back in, took their boots off outside the Deck 3 lounge, and then went to their cabins to change. Some passengers might stop off in the lounge to get a coffee or hot soup, and munch something before lunch or dinner.
Above we can see the upper exterior deck to the lounge on Deck 3. Once kitted-up, group by group, everyone would be check off the ship when going down to Marina on Deck 2. From there we would take the zodiacs for the excursions. Returning, we would have to clean boots, etc. on Deck 2, before being check back onboard when climbing up to Deck 3. There we would remove our boots before entering the lounge to get a hot drink, etc.
Occasionally the Deck 3 lounge also hosted quizzes, e.g. international songs, French songs, general knowledge, visual trivia, etc. And the Deck 3 lounge also hosted beginner dance lessons, e.g. salsa, tango, etc.
Everyday in the Deck 3 lounge there was a tea time served between 16:00 and 17:00. Examples were crêpe suzette, chocolate, macarons, etc. The tea time was followed daily by live music from 17:30 to 18:30. The Deck 3 lounge also hosted tastings of Pata Negra and caviar.
Everyday in the Deck 3 lounge there was evening entertainment and live music from 21:30 to 23:15. This could take the form of a “white evening”, mini-show, latino music, disco, 80’s party, jazz, casino night, etc.
Above we have the Panoramic Lounge on Deck 6. This became the home for the group of fellow passengers with whom I felt at home. A group of between 10 and 15 people would congregate there before lunch and dinner. Remember all non-premium drinks were included with the cabin, and that included Champagne. The main decision was about which of the two restaurants to honour with our presence. The barman was fantastic, the atmosphere really special, and the only slight blot on what were perfect moments was someone trying to play an out-of-tune piano, and failing miserably.
Just to the left of the above photo, one can see an alcove with tables that were often home to card and scrabble players.
This brings us naturally to the question of the ships terraces, or more generally outside spaces. In principle on Deck 7 there was a sun deck and an open air bar, but neither were operational. Also on Deck 6 there was a panoramic terrace (seen above) attached to the panoramic lounge. And also on Deck 6 as part of the restaurant there was a pool terrace (seen below).
So the two terraces most used were the panoramic terrace and the pool terrace. There were a few days when the weather actually allowed the pool terrace to be used during lunch. It was also used for barbecuing on more than one occasion.
And the lounge on Deck 3 had its own exterior space which, along with the Marina on Deck 2, were more or less only used during the excursions.
But there were some days when there was a thin covering of ice on the handrails and exterior decking.
Food and Drink
There were two restaurants, which were used for all meals (morning, midday, evening). Le Céleste on Deck 2 was for waiter services based upon a daily menu, but which might include some courses taken from a buffet. Whilst La Comète on Deck 6 was a less formal dining area with complete buffet service.
I personally always took breakfast on Deck 6. However, a group of friendly travellers formed during the cruise, and after drinks together in the Panoramic Lounge, the group would decide to drop-in on one or other restaurant, either as a large group, or as a number of “satellite” groups. And not forgetting that some people occasionally preferred room service which was part of the “all inclusive” package.
You often see these two restaurant with different names, e.g. The Restaurant and The Grill, depending upon the charter.
Let’s start with La Comète on Deck 6, which was a self-service buffet. This was my breakfast room (07:00-09:00), and as a group we might go there for lunch (12:00-13:30) or dinner (19:00-20:30). We can see that the decor is functional, table settings are simple, and the layout quite compact and designed for small groups. We can just see a barbecue station out on the pool terrace.
Lets start with breakfast…
You can see that the offering was very complete, and it was also possible to order omelettes, etc. on the side. There were some vegetarian and vegan options as well.
Lunch and dinner were both a very similar layout, but with considerably more variety from day to day. Nevertheless, at times it did resemble an upmarket canteen, despite the waiters, etc.
My comment is not designed to be negative concerning the food, but more to do with the overall ambiance.
Above we have a very appetising fresh salad taken from the lunchtime salad buffet. And below a truly outstanding risotto from the evening buffet.
Almost always there was a signature dish on offer. For example, below we have an excellent Chevreuil rôti, sauce aux fruits rouges (Roasted venison with red berry jus).
Ponant naturally claims that Le Céleste on Deck 2 is a refined gastronomical restaurant. Let’s say it tries. It is able to serve all passengers at the same time, as during the two Gala Dinners and the Officer’s Dinner. One evening there was a special Bordier Cheese Buffet.
The waiter service was efficient, and the kitchen was surprisingly speedy (but not always). Occasionally the food was a bit hit-and-miss, e.g. the meat was usually of good quality, but occasionally overcooked. Perhaps the most important criticism was that some of the dishes lacked a little something (not tasteless, but could do better), and that some of less impressive French-style dishes could have been replaced by more tasty Asian, Indian, or even European-inspired dishes.
However, it is worth mentioning that 4-course meals, twice daily, for 14 days, can make some people over critical of the next dish. But it is equally true that a course with an exotic French description does not guarantee that it tastes as good as it sounds.
The wines served as part of the “all inclusive” package were usually reasonable, but there was an interesting wine list available (for a price). There were two sommeliers, and as expected, they were a just a tat over top, one more so than the other. But I suppose its part of their job description.
The menu consisted of a part that changed daily, and a part that was always available.
The “permanents” were:-
- Salade César (poulet, saumon fumé ou crevettes) (Caesar salad with either chicken, smoked salmon or shrimp)
- Salade végétarienne (vegetarian salad) PONANT
- Club sandwich PONANT et frites (French fries)
- Saumon cuit à la vapeur, sauce rougail (Steamed salmon with a mango rougail sauce)
- Saumon poêlé aux épices Cajun (Seared salmon with Cajun spices
- Burger végétarien, frites de patate douce (Vegetarian burger, sweet potato French fries)
- Burger PONANT
- Sandwich de poulet mariné croustillant (Southern fried chicken sandwich
- Curry de légumes verts, riz basmati (Green vegetable curry, basmati rice)
- Entrecôte de bœuf origine Argentine 250g (Beef entrecôte 250g from Argentina)
- Filet de bœuf origine Argentine 200g (Beef tenderloin 200g from Argentina)
- Blanc de volaille grillé (Grilled chicken breast)
- Accompagnements au choix: Sauce Chimichurri, béarnaise ou beurre Maitre d’Hôtel à la truffe (Choice of garnishes: Chimichurri sauce, béarnaise or Maitre d’Hôtel truffle butter)
- Pommes frites, frites de patate douce, purée de pommes de terre, pomme de terre au four à la crème, riz basmati, haricots verts ou légumes de saison (French fries, sweet potato fries, mashed potatoes, baked potato with sour cream, basmati rice, green beans).
Here are two daily menus to highlight the style a variety on offer for both lunch and dinner.
Menu One (Lunch)
- Soupe de chou chinois (Chinese cabbage soup)
- Buffet des entrées (Starters buffet) or Flammenkueche (a creamy thin tart with bacon and onion)
- Gâteau de cabillaud, sauce chili (Cod fish cake, chili sauce), or
- Curry d’agneau à l’indienne, riz à la cardamome (Indian lamb curry, cardamome rice), or Dhal aux œufs et au curry (Curry egg dhal)
- Speciality of the day – Tartare de bœuf, origine Argentine, à l’italienne et à la française parfumé à la truffe (Beef tartar from Argentina, Italian and truffle french style)
- Sélection de fromages de France et d’ailleurs, condiments (French and foreign cheese selection with condiments)
- Buffet des desserts (Dessert buffet)
White – Pays d’Hérault, Moulin de Gassac, 2022 (Terret, Carignan blanc) or Ventoux, Passe-Colline, 2022 (Vermentino, Grenache blanc)
Rosé – Vin de Pays de Méditerranée, Brise marine, 2023 (Cinsault, Grenache)
Red – Côtes-du-Rhône, Le Pas de la Beaume, 2021 (Grenache, Syrah) or Pays d’Oc, Guillaume Aurèle, 2022 (Merlot).
Menu Two (Dinner)
- Velouté de carottes, cumin et lait de coco (Carrot, cumin and coconut milk velouté) or Consommé de bœuf, brunoise de légumes (Diced vegetable and beef broth)
- Carpaccio de poulpe, vinaigrette aux agrumes (Octopus carpaccio, citrus dressing) or Croquilles d’escargots bio de St Mamet (Organic snails from “St Mamet” in garlic butter croquilles), or Billes de melon et mozzarella à l’eau de tomate (Melon and mozzarella balls in tomato water)
- Filet de bar rôti, purée de patate douce et orange (Roasted Seabass fillet, sweet potato purée and orange) or Quinori aux légumes de saison (Quinori with seasonal vegetables) or Coquillettes, jambon, comté and truffe (Elbow pasta, ham, comté cheese and truffle).
- Speciality of the Day – Suprême de volaille fermière, légumes de saison rôtis, sauce chimichurri (Farmhouse poultry supreme, roasted seasonal vegetables, chimichurri sauce)
- Selection de fromages Bordier, condiments (Bordier cheese selection with condiments)
- Crème brûlée vanille (Vanilla crème brûlée) or Profiterole à la fraise (Strawberry profiterole) or Panna cotta au thé Earl Grey et minestrone d’ananas (Earl grey tea panna cotta and pineapple minestrone), or Sélection de glaces et sorbets (Ice-cream and sorbet selection) or Assiette de fruits tranchés (Sliced fruit plate) or Salade de fruits frais (Fresh fruit salad)
The wine included with the menu were:-
White – Ventoux, Passe-Colline, 2022 (Vermentino, Grenache blanc) or Bordeaux, Château Haut-Bellian, 2022 (Sauvignon Blanc)
Rosé – Vin de Pays de Méditerranée, Brise marine, 2023 (Cinsault, Grenache)
Red – Coteaux de Béziers, Jardin des Charmes, 2022 (Merlot) or Côtes-du-Rhône, Le Pas de la Beaume, 2021 (Grenache, Syrah).
Here and there I took a photo of one of other dish that I felt impressed (not always positively). I leave it to the reader to enjoy the moment, remembering that occasionally a dish might not always deliver on what appearances might otherwise promise.
Conclusion
It is impossible for me to draw a sensible conclusion about my expedition cruise and the role played by the cruse ship Le Lyrial.
It was my first trip to the Antarctic, Argentina, and South America.
It was my first cruise, first night on a ship, and the first time I had ever experience the true immensity of the ocean.
It was the first time I had been surrounded by so much nature (physical and animal), all totally oblivious to the existence of Man.
Seeing so many penguins, elephant seals, icebergs, whales, snow covered landscapes untouched by Man, was a uniquely new experience.
It was also the first time I found myself on holiday without my beloved wife Monique, but fortunately a group of happy-go-lucky people welcomed me into their lives.
And all this thanks to the cruise ship Le Lyrial, my home-away-from-home for over two weeks.
