My beloved wife Monique passed away on 23 December 2023. So I was now faced with making “our” Spring Roadtrip 2024 south to Andalusia by myself.
My first stop was at the Domaine de Marchal in Celles-sur-Durolle.
This is a 3-star “chambres et table d’hôtes” not far from Vichy.
My choice was largely determined by location, i.e. in the right place to spend a night in my drive down to southern Spain. However, in addition it offered free secure private parking, free wifi, and an optional evening meal.
Booking gave this hotel an 9.6/10 (Exceptional) from 115 reviews.
What is a "chambres et table d'hôtes"?
A chambre d’hotes is the French equivalent to a guest house or bed and breakfast. As far as I know chambre d’hotes is the same as “maisons d’hôtes“.
So it’s an overnight stay in someone’s home, and includes breakfast. It can literally mean almost any kind of home, from a simple room in a 2-bed bungalow to an elegant room in a small château or castle. One of the rules is that guests must be received by the host.
There are a few other regulations to comply with. Firstly, a chambre d’hotes can only have a maximum of five guest bedrooms and accommodate a maximum of 15 people. The rooms must have a minimum surface area of nine square metres and at least 220 cm ceiling height. A chambre d’hotes has to be furnished, must provide both linen and breakfast, and be cleaned daily. The stay must be charged on a night-by-night basis, and a detailed bill must be provided.
A chambre d’hôtes must be declared at the local town hall.
Table d’hotes is an option for the owners of chambre d’hotes to also provide dinner to their guests. Regulations are that the owner must only offer one menu, preferably composed of local products, so-called “produits du terroir“. So no choices such as two starters, or options for the main meals and dessert. Meals should be taken at the family table with the owner. If alcohol is served, the host will need a drinks licence called “licence petite restauration“, and have taken a compulsory training called “stage permis d’exploitation“. Finally, dinner cannot be served to people who are not staying in the property.
“Chambre d’hôte” is different from “gîte“, which is an independent touristic furnished rental, and it’s not mandatory to provide breakfast or household linen. A gîte could be a flat, a house or a separate cottage. Most are self catering but the owner may also provide extra services such as cleaning, bed sheets or leisure activities. A gîte can be declared as a professional activity, and must be registered with “registre du commerce“. Or it can be registered as a non-professionnal activity called “Loueur Meublé Non Professionnel“, if it is only a secondary source of income.
Finding the hotel
The hotel was not far from the A89 (connecting Bordeaux and Lyon via Clermont-Ferrand), and easy to find using both my car navigation, and TomTom. The only thing was that I did not immediate spot the entrance and so drove past it on a side road. But I quickly realised my mistake. The owner had seen me drive past, and was waiting when I (finally) drove up. There was a covered parking waiting for me.
It would be harsh of me to comment on the park-garden because it certainly was not at its best in late-winter, early-spring. But I could seen that it was a calm, country style location, with a small lake, mature trees, and a nice view.
Welcome
As expected, the owner warmly welcomed me, we chatted for a while, and then he showed me to my room.
My room
I was the only guest, and I was given the room that appears on the Booking website. It was comfortable, and there was the option to have coffee/tea (with two madeleines), and a much appreciated free bottle of water. The room had a terrace, and nice views over the local countryside.
The only criticism is that the room was a bit cold, but this is often the case in older style properties. You know this before booking.
Below we can see the bathroom. I had asked for a shower, and there was plenty of hot water.
Evening meal
I had pre-booked an evening meal in the form of a cold plate of local meats and cheeses, along with a carafe of red wine. I didn’t want a sit-down meal, so we had agreed that I could dine in my room.
It was perfect, and more than enough for an evening meal (price 20€).
Breakfast
We had agreed on breakfast at around 08:00, and I came down to the dining room to find the usual spread.
I should have mentioned to the owner that I only wanted coffee and a croissant with some marmalade/jam. But I appreciated the effort, and the company. The owner was very pleasant and informative over breakfast, and I enjoyed very much our chat.
Conclusion
This was the perfect stopover. In the right place, with secure parking, etc. a good shower, and offering something tasty to eat.
There is no reason why I would not recommend this chambre d’hotes. But it’s equally true that there is no compelling reason to return. I’m sure many such guest houses are of a lower quality, but equally I am also sure that there are equally good alternatives in the region, delivering the same quality of service, etc. For a one-night stop-over I tend to like to try alternatives.
